Study applies principles of physics at the ocean’s surface to study how energy is transferred from the underlying wave to a particle on the surface,in this case, a surfer. Based upon the speed and geometry of the wave, you can find where on the wave the maximum acceleration, or ‘sweet spot,’ will be

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Study applies principles of physics at the ocean’s surface to study how energy is transferred from the underlying wave to a particle on the surface,in this case, a surfer. Based upon the speed and geometry of the wave, you can find where on the wave the maximum acceleration, or ‘sweet spot,’ will be